From his collection, "Pleats, Please," Miyake's Minaret dress with 7 hoops emphasizes form, not function, and is meant to exist in a gallery space as much or more than on a catwalk, thereby redefining the spaces high fashion was created for. With the avant-garde movement in modern Japanese fashion came a de-emphasis on color, noted here by the grayscale of the photo.
This early collection exemplifies his monochromatic palate, even when designers became texualized and patterned. He, along with his fellow Japanese designers, relied increasingly on dramatic headwear to make a statement outfit complete, showing how his designs became more similar to international norms in order to be competitive.
Themes of Miyake's Fall/Winter 1987 collection included emphasis on oversized silhouttes, thereby accentuating the diminutive size of the models draped in his fabric, and kept up the trend of women in menswear as well as slowly exhibiting a greater affinity for patterns and textures as well as forms.
Fall/ Winter 1993 Menswear collection. Highlights of this collection include mono-chromatic suits, with different formations (such as the jumpsuit pictured left, and oversized jacket - contrary to conventional menswear).